iDrive  (* 1 iDrive per motor*)  

The iGROW is just dry switching contacts that the iDrive receives.

Master into a Slave

• On the J2 PCB #3 &#2 (to 24VAC transformer) remove and INDEPENDENTLY cap off.

Slave - Make into a Slave

• J1 on circut board (9 - 10 slots) you daisy chain them accordingly

DAISY CHAIN

• Remove & cap wires independently going to 3 & 4 on J1 Circuit board
• Or you can allow them to be powered independently.
• Or you can use control relays if you want the iDrives to be masters with their own 24v transformer on the iDrive.

iDRIVE hooking to iGROW Controller

• 1^st on the circuit board on door | look at J1 Section (lower Rt portion on the board)
• To dry switch your device | 3 - for   open   | 2 - for  common   | 1 - for  close
• This will allow the iDrive to respond in Auto

iDRIVE TROUBLESHOOTING

• 1^st Check the INPUT voltage (meter).  Does the input voltage match the red wire ASSIGNED voltage?

• Example if 220v is going in – and the red wire is assigned to 120/208/240 -- the TRANSFORMER is taking that voltage and sending something different to the circuitry of the iDrive motor which creates havoc.

• 2^nd ON J2 (top left corner, door PCB) pull 2&3 (to 24VAC) and meter the voltage (must be 25+ volts)

• 3^rd Buzzing; is it not functioning at all - and if not, has the contactor stopped pulling in?

• 4^th Measure (meter ) A1 & A2 on on contactor (while buzzing) 

• Buzzing – bad contactor | Loose wire | 24V to coil

RIDDER MOTORS  -- Can you please provide the following information: 

 ARTICLE NUMBER   off MOTOR (RIDDER) and the MODEL NUMBER  off the iDrive that is providing power directly to it.  

•  Ridder Article # - It’s a 6 digit number that begins with 5
•  iDrive Model # -  it begins with 970

iDrive buzzing and over time it gets louder and louder.

• Tighten the screws that secure the contactor back plate to the container; see if there are any loose screws that omit the chatter.  When the electromagnetic plates get alittle debris on it, it chatters.
• If slaved with multiple iDrives, check the low voltage daisy chain and make sure its 24v.. If it drops to a lower voltage.. this could be the problem as well.
• A1 to A2 (1^st screws Rt Corner of Contactor) make sure there is 24V; check each CONTACTOR…W/METER.

Why doesn't my equipment turn on with the iDrive on?

• Verify that the green power LED on the iDrive is on.
• Check that the voltage selector wire is on the proper voltage. We ship them on a “no contact” terminal 
  and you have to move it to either 120V, 208V or 230V position. 
• This assumes you have an iDrive Master (24V Transformer inside the iDrive) not an iDrive Slave which needs an external 24V power source. 

Can you please provide the following:

• Part number of the iDrive and the motor information, (Ridder Article number, if Ridder) that will probably help sort things out. The iDrive part number should begin with 970-xxxx-xxx. 

How can I bypass the mechanical limits?

• Move J3A & J3B jumpers (right below LEDS) to the RT (you will see a white block and an inscription saying to bypass open & close Limits.)

I have a Motor for my IDrive300 that does not contain limit switch wiring; it only has O/C/N/G?

• Connect them to an extension cord.  If it functions in an open/close manner.
• Then connect it to O/C/N/G on the iDrive and move J3A & J3B jumpers to bypass open & close Limits.

Ridder Motor is not working at, but i can energize contactor with a pencil.

• Put vent in the middle so you can move a little in both directions

• Take red jumpers for the close and open limits ( J3A & J3B on PCB below 4led's)  | move them to the bypass position

• Try to use manual switch and see if you can move in both directions. | your bypassing the limit witches safely

• If it works | this will tell us that the iDrive is working

• When you put the jumpers back in the proper position and trips right way; this means that the limits have to be reset in the gear box.

My iDrive is not turning on at all.

• Check power LED & Fuse…

iDRIVE – to - Thermostat

• If the iDrive or group of iDrives (Master and Slave(s)  are currently operating properly using the manual controls, then what is needed is a two-stage low voltage thermostat that can dry switch the OPEN, CLOSE and COMMON (J1 1/2/3) Terminals on the Master iDrive based on a temperature setting. The diagram is actually silk screened on the iDrive PCB. The thermostat would need 3 wires and are available from various on-line sources, and perhaps even Home Depot.

If the iDrives don't each have there own transformer, but are getting 24VAC from some other source then it will still work. 

You would put the thermostat on the 1st iDrive in the chain and when the thermostat triggers him, the other two would also respond. If they want to run the iDrives individually, they can put a separate thermostat on each one.